Dust Extractor Vacuum Shootout - Makita, Fein, De. Walt, Hilti. In the last decade, dust extraction has definitely gone from “handy and convenient” to “absolutely essential.” This is particularly due to issues raised by the new EPA Renovation, Repair and Painting (RRP) program as well as existing guidelines and/or rules put forth by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) and the Occupations Safety & Health Administration (OSHA). Manufacturers are following suit with innovations that take these new requirements into account and new dust extractor vacuums that are coming to market with great features. In short, dust extractors and HEPA- ready vacuums are now a very big deal.
More than just “shop vacs”, these dust extractor vacuums capture and remove job site dust at such levels as to make the vacuums of yesterday look like a dustpan and brush in comparison. SUPPORT OUR ADVERTISERSWhile there are literally dozens upon dozens of wet/dry vacuums on the market, dust extractors comprise only a handful of manufacturers who are taking the plunge into this demanding, high- performance segment. The reasons are obvious (to us, at least): dust extraction, while big business, has to be done right. The filters, technology and accessories involved in pulling it off limit the number of participants who can produce these quality tools and products.
- While there are literally dozens upon dozens of wet/dry vacuums on the market, dust extractors comprise only a handful of manufacturers who are taking the plunge into.
- If you've got 7zip or WinRar, you can right click most self extractors and have those programs dump the contents into a folder for you (same as with a zip/rar.
To get a sampling of what was available, we collected four models to review: the De. Walt DWV0. 12, Makita VC4. Hilti VC4. 0- U and Fein Turbo II (9- 2. Comprehensively reviewing all of the manufacturers putting out these dust extractor vacuums would involve a lot more space than we’re prepared to go into in the span of this article. As such, these four popular dust extractors will hopefully serve to cover a nice representative selection of products from across the industry and help in determining what makes a great dust extractor. A lot of the tools will have some crossover between the trades, but I attempted to use and evaluate them within several job site applications, including tuckpointing a fireplace, cross- cutting Hardie. Plank and spruce and mitering crown and base molding.
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In this way I was also able to collect data from a wide range of performance issues that are common in the residential and commercial construction markets. Not every tool is designed for every trade, so I’ll point out my thoughts along the way as to why one model might be more or less suited towards a particular use and why. Common Features. All of the dust extractors we tested are part of a family of products. It’s possible that if you desire more or less vacuum capacity or higher power there may be a tool from the same manufacturer that will suit your needs. Tested models ranged in size from 9 to 1. Secondly, all four of the tools on- hand included power cords that were at least 1. With these dust extraction systems you reach a lot further, with more mobility and flexibility, than ever before.
De. Walt DWV0. 12 dust extractor outlet. Most dust extraction systems also come with the ability to plug a power tool into the actuator outlet and turn on the vacuum system automatically when you power up the tool. While some woodworkers may call this a poor man’s dust collection system, the fact is—it’s portable and very sensible for anyone needing to collect dust quickly on a variety of job sites. There are also a host of accessories available for each of these products—from bags, liners and filters to specialized hoses and adapters. Some vacuums like the Hilti, Fein and Makita even have special kits that allow you to attach a crevice tool or a full brush set with modular handle. Tool by Tool. De. Walt DWV0. 12 1. 0 Gallon HEPA Dust Extractor.
De. Walt DWV0. 12 dust extractor. The De. Walt was the second largest dust extractor in the group, with a stated 1. It was the most rotund of the pack, but like an NFL lineman it handled that extra weight with uncanny grace. The De. Walt was the easiest vacuum of the bunch to cart around. Its large rear wheels and convenient telescoping handle that retracts all the way down made this my favorite portable machine for tossing in the truck and taking to the job site.
The self- cleaning filter system works by alternating a reverse puff of air through one of the filters every 3. It also initially blows out both filters when you start it up.). The cleaning lasts just a half second, but it’s enough to clear the filter of anything significant that would hamper the flow of air prior to the canister being completely full. I made enough Hardie. Plank cuts to fill up the canister pretty good. Even though both filters were literally surrounded with fiver- cement dust, the self- cleaning system allowed the DWV0. This was impressive since the dual canister system has both canisters essentially sticking straight down into the collector during use.
I again pulled out the De. Walt when tuckpointing a fireplace that hadn’t been touched since around 1. My normal grinder kit was out of commission, so I stopped by the local Lowe’s Home Improvement store and picked up a Bosch 1. E Tuckpoint Grinder. This is a 5- inch 8. UL, OSHA and NIOSH standards for dust control.
Since the De. Walt came ready to go with a DWV9. HEPA filter installed I was able to get to work in no time. The DWV0. 12 had plenty of suction and worked well to pull all of the available mortar dust through the HEPA filters, into the canister and out of the room. That’s worth pointing out again because there are several systems on the market that can meet the EPA Renovations, Repair and Painting (RRP) Rule—almost none of them ship already compliant like the De. Walt. Most require the purchase of an additional HEPA filter. De. Walt DWV0. 12 dust extractor connected to our chop saw.
The De. Walt DWV0. The De. Walt vacuum will then run for an additional 1. In addition to triggering off the outlet, you can configure the De. Walt from the front to be always on.
After the vacuum cycles up and does its initial cleaning cycle you can also adjust the suction with the front control should you want to dial back the vacuum for a more delicate application. De. Walt DWV0. 12 dust extractor filters. I had a real affinity for how easily the De. Walt handled the job site. The houses I was working on were unfinished, and the De. Walt seemed to be able to navigate its way both inside and outside the home without any trouble. It also did an excellent job at keeping up suction no matter how fast I ran a saw or grinder.
The self- cleaning mode kicked in as expected at its predefined intervals, and it didn’t present a hiccup for the collection of dust. The small amount of suction lost for the half- second it switches off the single filter doesn’t seem to affect the workflow in any tangible way. Pros: Portability, Power tool actuation, Telescoping handle, Auto filter cleaning, Meets EPA RRP rule standards.
Cons: Heaviest of the dust extractors tested. Verdict: This is the tool you want for job site portability and out- of- the- box EPA RRP rule compatibility. Fein Turbo II 9- 2. Gallon Wet/Dry Dust Extractor. Fein Turbo II dust collector.
The Fein Turbo II was the quietest vacuum of the bunch—and it also tied for the loudest. This is because the Turbo II includes 5 speed/power settings which are controlled by soft buttons on the face of the dust collector. Oddly enough, the system measured quietest at its medium setting and loudest at its lowest setting (due, in part, to low frequencies). Fein doesn’t have an automatic cleaning system for the filter, so you’ll need to pay attention to your available suction and do a bit more manual cleaning. They also only include a 6 micron textile filter bag that takes up a considerable and perplexing amount of room within the vacuum. You can purchase regular or HEPA (0.
Fein Turbo II is compatible with some third party filters as well—something that could save you money over the long term. With the automatic power setting, I was able to use the dust extractor with some pretty heavy duty high- current tools, including miter and table saws. The vacuum comes on immediately, as you’d expect, and it runs an additional 5 seconds after the tool is turned off, allowing some time to clear the hose. This is the shortest post- run time of all the vacuums tested, but it’s sufficient for most near- field use.
When I connected the Fein to a miter saw, for example, the sawdust cleared the entire 1. The Turbo II will pass power through to a connected tool in any switch position, so you don’t have to run the vacuum in order to activate a connected tool. Fein Turbo II dust collector clasp. There is considerable play where the hose makes its positive connection to the vacuum body. When you fire up the Turbo II it pulls in nice and tight, but there is some air leakage due to the non- rubberized plastic- on- plastic fitting. On the positive side, the connection is a secure one, unlike the friction fitting method employed by Hilti and Makita. You can yank as hard as you like and the hose will not pop off, even when the suction is turned off.
I was able to easily direct the Turbo II dust extractor on any hard surface thanks to its six casters. With some of the four- wheeled models, direction is largely set by the temperament (and last known position) of the vacuum. While there is no included hose storage, the integrated cord wrap worked very nicely to contain all 1. This was my favorite “indoor” vac due to its maneuverability and the fact that it was almost never louder than any tool connected to it. The Fein was also really convenient to use for wet applications as it has a handy clean- out valve at the base. This was the only vacuum tested that came with this feature, and it makes it super easy to let out collected water without having to lift and dump the entire tank. Fein Turbo II dust collector filter.
The Fein has a nice simplicity that works well in the shop or even on the job site when doing carpentry work like cutting crown or base molding. The Turbo II was just the perfect combination of features and flexibility for my use. The Fein’s variable suction let me dial it down low for when cleaning up around areas where I wanted to remove dust and debris, but not larger items that were interspersed among the dirt I was removing. The De. Walt and Makita were also adept at controlling suction in this manner, but I really appreciated the diminutive size- to- capacity ratio of the Turbo II. Pros: Easiest to steer indoors, Smallest size- to- capacity ratio, Power tool actuation.
Cons: No hose storage, No automatic filter cleaning. Verdict: The indoor woodworking vac that can also handle bigger jobs when needed. Hilti VC4. 0- U 9. Gallon Vacuum Cleaner. Hilti VC- 4. 0- U dust collector. The Hilti VC4. 0- U has one of the more “physical” filter cleaning systems of the models tested.
Hilti calls its technology “Air. Boost”, and it briefly reverses the airflow every 1. As it does this, you hear a pretty substantial triple air bump that pulsates the motor section of the vacuum. The first time I cranked it up it sounded like someone was trying to bang on the wall to get my attention!
There is no doubt that the filter is being sufficiently cleared—something I verified visually as well. The filter is interesting in that it closely resembles the type you find in most cars or trucks, and it sits in the top portion of the motor assembly.
It has separate access and can be changed without having to open up the main debris compartment. This is good for a number of reasons, not the least of which is that the Hilti can collect an obscene amount of dust and debris without requiring a premature empty.
You can fill the unit up to a considerable volume before needing to take a trip to the dumpster. My helpers should last so long before breaks! While some of the other vacuums allow dirt to build up right around the filter, I actually prefer it when the air filter isn’t sticking directly into the sawdust, debris or atomized concrete I’m collecting. When used with the HEPA main filter, the Hilti VC4.
U meets the EPA lead related Renovations, Repair and Painting (RRP) rule for HEPA vacuums. The Hilti idles at just around 7. SPL, which is actually very quiet…until the filter cleaning mechanism bumps the noise up to 7. B. Still, this vacuum is well- insulated, and it doesn’t provide a substantial amount of noise pollution—besides that intrusive triple thump.
Upon shutting down the unit it pumps the filter rapidly to shake off any trailing debris. I thought that was odd until I opened up the lid and realized that I didn’t have to worry about shaking off the filter before emptying the container. This is now one of my favorite features in self- cleaning filter systems. The post- shut down cleaning also ensures that you get full suction the next time you start up the dust extractor. The De. Walt DWV0. Portability of the Hilti VC4. U is good, with large rear wheels and oversized front casters.
The handle doesn’t telescope or fold, however, and it’s a bit of a pain to remove. Throwing it on a truck bed is easy, but minimizing its vertical footprint can be a pain. The 1. 6′ hose is plenty long, and the 2. You can definitely park the vacuum and have a significant amount of room to move about with a connected tool. While the European version of the VC4. U has a 2. 40. 0 watt power outlet for tool actuation, the US model does not.
This is likely a UL issue, since we’re a bit more conservative here in the states regarding total power consumption on circuits. While this feature might come to the States eventually, for now the VC4.
U must be turned on and off manually using the large front dial. Hilti VC- 4. 0- U dust collector tuckpointing. I used the VC4. 0- U on my tuckpointing job, and it pulled out every last puff of airborne mortar as it was sent into the grinder shroud. After a whole lot of mortar- cleaning I was exhausted—but the Hilti seemed to be just fine. What was remarkable was the effectiveness of the dust control. Not only was the suction good enough to pull from the tool effectively, the filtering ensured that none of the airborne particles escaped the canister via the output vent. Pros: Top- mounted filter, Lots of accessory options.
Cons: Expensive HEPA filters, No power tool actuation. Verdict: This is a serious concrete vac with the accessories to make clean- up a breeze. SUPPORT OUR ADVERTISERSMakita VC4. Gallon Wet/Dry Vacuum. Makita VC4. 71. 0 dust collector.
It’s only fitting that the tallest vac of the bunch also has the longest power cord (2. Though the VC4. 71. Its 1. 6′ long cord gave me plenty of maneuverability when I was chopping Hardie. Plank to length and running some sawdust tests.
The VC4. 71. 0 is also very quiet, measuring only 6. SPL from three feet away. Makita attributes this to the use of sound- absorbing materials in the motor housing. I’d say it’s working very well. Like the De. Walt, Makita’s VC4.
That means that every 1. The filters are pretty standard- looking, but when they mount, they flex in such a way as to appear convex. In reality, they are simply pliable and held in shape by the plastic guards which surround them. With the integrated tool- activated outlet, the Makita is the perfect tool for connecting to a job site saw to control concrete or drywall dust or other fine particles. When you stop the tool.
The dust collector will keep going for an additional 1. Makita VC4. 71. 0 dust collector outlet. Though the VC4. 71. I found it extremely difficult to move over rough terrain. At one point I was making a whole lot of cuts outside a home, and it was nearly impossible to pull or push the VC4. If you aren’t on concrete you’re going to end up lifting and carrying it, which could quickly defeat the benefits of having such a lightweight system. Included with the Makita Dust Extractor is a main nano filter set that captures 9.
With an optional main HEPA filter installed, the Makita VC4. EPA (RRP) rule requirements for HEPA vacuums. Makita VC4. 71. 0 dust collector collecting Hardiplank dust from our chop saw.
The Makita definitely handled concrete and mortar dust extremely well, but I was partial to its size- to- weight ratio and the fact that it sat a bit higher. In my opinion this just made it easier to access for making adjustments and connections. When it came time to dump the canister, I had so much in the bucket I felt like I had filled up twice as much as the other vacs. Pros: Lots of filter surface area, Power tool actuation, Quiet. Cons: No elevated handle, Expensive HEPA filters.
Verdict: The deceptively compact workhorse that will jack- of- all- trades its way into your shop or work truck. Conclusion. It’s difficult to pin down any of these dust extractors as being pinpoint perfect for only one application. Clearly the Hilti, Makita and De. Walt have the accessories to handle nasty jobs like concrete drilling. The compact Fein has what it takes to dominate a single tool in a workshop setting, but it’s also good enough to go on the job and handle the rough stuff. All of the tools are, with the proper filter, perfectly suitable for usage that is in compliance with the EPA’s Lead Renovation, Repair and Painting Rule (RRP Rule). Of course, with the De.
Walt DWV0. 12 you’re compliant the second you open the box. Using the Hilti dust extractor with a Bosch tuckpointing grinder while wearing Kobalt Tools gloves…I guess this is an equal- opportunity review.
While having the right dust extractor vacuum doesn’t solve all your RRP rule problems, it’s certainly a step in the right direction. Given the increasing awareness and enforcement of dust control in the work place, these new dust extractors are setting the stage for vacuum systems that are more capable and better suited for the type of work being done by professional builders and contractors all around the country.
Rifles for Dangerous Game. Bolt Action Rifles for Dangerous Game By Chuck Hawks. Illustration courtesy of U. S. Repeating Arms Co. There seems to be a lot of interest in the subject of dangerous game rifles, and some misconceptions, especially on the part of younger hunters.
I don't pretend to be an expert on hunting dangerous game, but I am an avid reader and researcher and I tend to think that it is better to benefit from the experiences of others rather than to learn every painful lesson first hand. It seems that knowledge that was paid for in blood in the last Century is already being forgotten in this one. Perhaps it is time to review some of that hard won information about bolt action rifles and cartridges intended for hunting dangerous game. Advantages of Bolt Action Rifles. Bolt action rifles have several advantages over other types identified with hunting for dangerous game (typically the single shot and double- barreled rifle). Among these are the following.
Bolt actions are repeating rifles with a typical capacity of four shots in most belted magnum calibers (one in the chamber and three in the magazine) before reloading is required. The typical bolt action, because of its camming action when the bolt is opened, has more extraction power than any other type. Bolt action rifles are generally capable of very good accuracy, much better accuracy than double rifles. Bolt actions are as strong or stronger than any other action type and can handle the most powerful high- pressure cartridges. The bolt action is simpler than other types and can be field stripped and cleaned without tools. Bolt actions are, in general, the most reliable type of repeating rifle. Bolt action rifles are usually very easy to equip with a telescopic sight.
There is a wide selection of different brands and models of factory made bolt action rifles, something for every taste and budget. Bolt action rifles are comparatively affordable when compared to most other types. Disadvantages of Bolt Action Rifles. Bolt action rifles are, of course, not perfect, and they also have disadvantages compared to other types. Among these are the following.
They are the slowest of the repeating actions for a follow- up shot. Operation requires removing the shooting hand from the grip and the trigger, disturbing the aim. They are physically longer and thus less handy than a single shot or double rifle with the same length barrel(s). Stock Fit. It is absolutely necessary for the stock of a dangerous game rifle to fit the shooter. The subjective recoil effect of any powerful rifle cartridge can be minimized by a stock that fits properly.
A stock that doesn't fit can make even a . Unfortunately, cartridges considered adequate for hunting dangerous game are almost invariably of the powerful, hard kicking type. Worse, it is nearly impossible to snap shoot or point shoot with a poorly fitting stock. Even though the stock dimensions given in manufacturer's brochures may seem identical, different brands of rifles come with subtly different stocks. Even if a hunter cannot afford a custom fitted stock (and few can), it is critically important to try a variety of factory made rifles to find one that fits properly. Some minor adjustments are neither difficult nor expensive.
For the person with long arms, a factory stock that otherwise fits correctly may be lengthened by inserting a spacer between the recoil pad and stock, or by having a gunsmith fit a thicker recoil pad. Conversely, a stock may be shortened by fitting a thinner recoil pad, or having a gunsmith trim the end of the stock.
Wood can be removed from a comb that is too high, and a comb that is too thick can be thinned. Do whatever is required to insure that the stock fits correctly.
It is probably the single most important feature of any high powered rifle. For more on stocks, see my article "The Rifle Stock.")Bolt Throw. The turnbolt action is an inherently slow form of repeating rifle.
Even so, there are differences between brands regarding speed of operation and the time required for a follow- up shot. One factor affecting the speed of operation is the length of the bolt throw. Obviously, a longer cartridge requires a longer action, which has a longer bolt throw.
There are at least three common action lengths that might be used when hunting dangerous game. These are short actions (. Rem. Mag.), standard length actions (. Win. Mags.), and magnum length actions (.
H& H length, such as the . Rem. Mag. and . 4. Lott). There are also special actions for oversize magnum cartridges like the .
Rigby and . 4. 60 Weatherby Magnum, which cause problems because of their big diameter; they are only about 0. H& H cartridge. The longer the bolt throw, other things being equal, the longer it takes to operate the action. But other things are not equal.
More important to rapid operation is the smoothness of the bolt throw. The famous old Mannlicher- Schoenauer action was noted for its ultra- smooth operation because it was closely fitted and used a rotary magazine that reduced bolt drag. The modern Weatherby Mark V action is also noted for smooth operation. It uses a fat bolt body the same diameter as its 9 small locking lugs. This eliminates much of the bolt slop common to conventional two- lug bolt designs. The Weatherby Mark V is probably the fastest of the modern turn- bolt actions to operate.
Most Mauser derived bolt action rifles have two front locking lugs and require a 9. Some actions use three or more locking lugs spaced in such a way as to allow a 6. Browning A- Bolt II) or 5. Weatherby Mark V) bolt rotation.
This shorter bolt rotation allows more space between the bolt handle and a low mounted telescopic sight, and allows faster cycling of the action. It may be happenstance, but both the Browning and Weatherby actions also use smooth bolt knobs (a ball in the case of the Weatherby and a flattened and angled sphere in the case of the Browning) that contribute to smooth, fast operation. The fastest form of bolt action rifle is the straight pull action. The Canadian Ross rifle of pre- WW I fame was the first of the breed with which I am familiar. Such rifles have never been popular because they usually sacrifice too many of the bolt action's virtues (camming action on extraction, controlled feed, simplicity of design) for a fairly minor increase in speed of operation. The straight pull bolt action is still slower than a lever, pump, or autoloading rifle. They are seldom recommended for use on dangerous game due to lingering questions about reliability, especially in adverse environments, which date clear back to the days of the Ross rifles.
But straight pull designs are still occasionally seen. And they do provide faster follow- up shots than a turnbolt action. The two with which I am somewhat familiar are the Blaser R 9.
Browning Acera. The latter is basically a manually operated version of the BAR autoloader, with the BAR's multiple lug rotating bolt head. The only magnum caliber for which the Acera is chambered is the .
Winchester Magnum. The Blaser action uses an expanding collar to lock the bolt, and is available in a wide variety of powerful magnum calibers from the . Weatherby up to the . Remington Magnum.
Obviously, faster is better when hunting dangerous game, but not to the exclusion of all else. The Bolt. The bolt body of a turn- bolt rifle can be made from a single piece of steel, or assembled from two or more parts.
A one- piece bolt body that includes the locking lugs is generally stronger and more trouble free than a multi- piece bolt body, although more expensive to manufacture. Again, this is a small matter, but it is a point in favor of the one- piece bolt designs used in rifles such as the Ruger M7. Weatherby Vanguard, Weatherby Mark V, and Winchester Model 7.
Recoil Lug. Some modern actions, usually those based on round receivers formed from bar stock, use what is essentially a heavy washer trapped between the barrel and receiver for a recoil lug. This system in inexpensive to build, and seems to work; the Remington Model 7. Far stronger is a stout recoil lug machined as part of the receiver. The Mauser 9. 8, Ruger M7. Weatherby Vanguard, Weatherby Mark V, and Winchester Model 7.
Controlled Feed. Professional hunters and those who have a lot of experience hunting African dangerous game with bolt action rifles usually favor controlled feed designs, such as the Mauser Model 9. Ruger Model 7. 7 Mk.
II, and Winchester Classic Model 7. These use full length Mauser pattern extractors that capture the rim of the case as it is pushed out of the magazine and positively align the case with the chamber (hence "controlled feed"). A Mauser type action will feed correctly with the rifle held at any angle or even upside down.
Not usually a consideration, it might be if the hunter has been bowled over by a grizzly bear and is trying to operate the action as he rolls on the ground. Also, controlled feed prevents double feeds. When the extractor has captured one cartridge, a second cannot leave the magazine without the first being ejected.
Either way, only one cartridge makes it into the chamber. With a push feed action, incorrect operation (double stroking) the bolt can result in two cartridges trying to enter the chamber at once, jamming the rifle. Not that push feed rifles such as the Browning A- Bolt II, Remington Model 7. Sako Model 7. 5, Savage Model 1. Weatherby Mark V are not perfectly acceptable for most purposes. But the tiny margin of extra feeding reliability credited to the controlled feed design gives it the advantage in a rough and tumble situation.
Extraction. Full length, Mauser pattern extractors not only increase feeding reliability, they take a bigger bite on the rim of the fired case, making the extraction of dirty or oversize cases more certain. Actions such as the Weatherby Mark V, which use shorter and smaller claws, are reputed to be next best for extracting balky cases. And actions like the Remington Model 7.
None of these later designs take as positive a grip on the case rim as a Mauser claw extractor, making failures to extract slightly more likely. I have used many brands of bolt action rifles over the years, most without full length extractors, and only one gave feeding or extraction problems (a Remington). I can live with that record, but then I don't make my living protecting clients from charging beasts, either.
Ejection. For a dangerous game rifle, a plunger ejector in the bolt face (as per Remington, Weatherby, and most other push feed actions) is a positive advantage. It always ejects the fired case clear of the action regardless of how slow the bolt is operated. With a fixed ejector (used in the Mauser 9. This can result in a jam if the bolt is then run forward without clearing the fired case.
Another weakness of the fixed ejector is that it can be damaged or bent if unfired, very heavy cartridges such as the . Lott or . 4. 16 Rigby are extracted and ejected smartly.
This has happened when emptying the magazines of controlled feed rifles with blind magazine floorplates. Contrary to the sentiments of traditionalists, the plunger ejector is more positive, if less convenient for reloaders. Another consideration is the size of the ejection port. For both ejection and loading a single cartridge, the bigger the better. The modern trend is toward small ejection ports.
These make for a stiffer and theoretically more accurate action, but their primary advantage is reduced manufacturing costs. Actions like the Steyr- Mannlicher and Tikka T3 are the worst offenders, and should be avoided. The Remington 7. 00 has a noticeably smaller ejection port than the Mauser 9. Ruger M7. 7, Weatherby Mark V, Weatherby Vanguard, or Winchester Model 7. Any of the latter are faster to single load. The large loading/ejection port is also an advantage at the rifle range.
Magazine Capacity. Clearly, the more shots the better when hunting dangerous game. You shouldn't need more than one or two shots to end any hunt. But when things go wrong they tend to go wrong in bunches, and who knows but what just one more cartridge in the magazine might make the difference between success and disaster. Some rifles have a greater magazine capacity than do others. Some cartridges are so fat that fewer of them will fit in a standard magazine. The latter are not desirable if a smaller diameter cartridge of similar performance is available.
Magazine Floorplates. As handy as I find hinged magazine floorplates to be, they can dump the remaining cartridges out of the magazines of rifles with heavy recoil at the most inopportune moment. Many dangerous game specialists prefer blind magazines for this reason. Some rifles designed for heavy recoil, such as the Weatherby Mark V, feature magazine floorplate catches with a particularly generous bite to forestall this problem. Iron Sights. Iron sights are simple, inexpensive, and durable. The traditional sights for dangerous game rifles of all types is the shallow "V" open rear sight called an "express" sight combined with a front sight featuring a large brass or ivory bead.
This combination interferes less than other rifle sights with simply "pointing" the rifle (as one points a shotgun without actually aiming) at a charging animal at very close range. The aperture rear sight with a large ring (or "ghost" ring) mounted on the receiver of the rifle, combined with the same type of front sight (or a square post), is relatively fast to acquire and more accurate than an express sight, but less suitable for "pointing" in an emergency.
These are probably the two best choices for the hunter who favors iron sights for use on dangerous game. The biggest drawback to all iron sights is that they require the shooter's eye to correctly align objects at different distances with great precision. With a large diameter aperture sight the eye must shift its focus between the front sight and the target. The shooter simply looks through the rear ring and does not try to focus on it.) With traditional express sights the eye must shift its focus between the back sight, front sight, and target. With either type the eye must shift focus precisely and very rapidly to insure that everything is correctly aligned before the shot is fired. Younger shooters with good eyesight can make a pretty fair stab at using either ghost ring or express sights, but older shooters or those who must wear glasses or contact lenses, simply cannot.
Either type makes the acquisition of a correct sight picture relatively slow (compared to optical sights), and the large front sight blocks a significant portion of the target. The express rear sight also blocks out the foreground. Telescopic Sights.
Most hunters, young or old, will do far better shooting with a telescopic sight. Scopes place the aiming point and the target in the same optical plane. This eliminates the necessity for the eye to align a back sight, front sight, and target that are all in different planes of focus. Modern scopes generally use some sort of tapered crosshair as an aiming point. This is conspicuous, much more precise than an iron front sight, and obscures very little of the target or the surrounding landscape.
A scope also allows you to identify what you are looking at. It is much easier to tell the tip of a horn from the tip of a branch, or a man in a brown coat from a bear when looking through a scope. The only real drawback to a telescopic sight is that it makes unaimed fire (pointing) difficult. Most shooters can acquire a correct sight picture and get off a shot faster and more accurately with a low power scope than with any type of iron sight. A low power scope is the most popular type of optical sight used for hunting dangerous game. Note the emphasis on "low power." Magnification must be low to maximize the field of view.
A wide field of view is absolutely critical for fast target acquisition, particularly of large animals at close range. Lower power also usually comes with generous eye relief, an important consideration when mounting a scope on a hard kicking rifle. The relatively restricted field of view of a medium or high power scope can make target acquisition slow or impossible. If all you see is hide when you look through your high power scope at a charging buffalo, it's pretty hard to determine where to place the bullet to stop him. A fixed power scope in the 1. Such scopes from the better manufacturers are lightweight, compact, durable, optically excellent, and have a wide field of view.
They allow precise aim over all ranges at which dangerous game should be shot. Everything that you want in a scope for a dangerous game rifle can be had in a low magnification scope; they are even reasonably priced. The alternative to the fixed power scope is the variable power scope. A variable power scope somewhere in the 1- 4x range may be a perfectly satisfactory choice for a dangerous game rifle. The extra magnification makes it a bit more precise when shooting at the range, and is an advantage when attempting a shot at a small, non- dangerous animal beyond 2. But remember to reset the magnification to the low end after every such use.
What you don't want is to engage a dangerous animal at close range and then discover (too late!) that you left your variable scope set to its highest magnification and you can't find the beast in the reduced field of view. For this reason general- purpose variable power scopes such as the popular 2. Not only do they usually have a smaller field of view and less eye relief even at minimum power, the first time you forget to reset such a scope to its lowest setting may be your last. Low magnification scopes are simply safer. That low power scope should be mounted as low as possible and directly over the bore, an aid to fast shooting. The scope mount should be very solid, particularly on the powerful rifles normally used for hunting dangerous game.
The reticule should be visible even in poor light. A duplex type of reticule is probably ideal, but a 4 to 6 minute Lee dot or medium- heavy standard crosshair is also good. Fine crosshairs and Mil Dot crosshairs are not so good, and should be avoided, as should any other complicated or range- finding type reticule. On rifles of exceptionally heavy recoil (greater than, say, a . H& H Magnum) an extended eye relief scope mounted forward of the receiver may be appropriate. This mounting location dramatically decreases the field of view (which is the problem with "scout" rifles), but with practice some shooters learn to compensate by shooting with both eyes open.
Electronic Sights. Red dot sights, with or without tubes, are easy to use. They offer an essentially unlimited field of view, since they have no magnification. Like a scope, they put the aiming point (usually a glowing red dot) and the target in the same optical plane. They are, naturally, highly visible in bad light.
And they are entirely suitable for eyeglass wearers, older hunters, and everyone else. While probably not quite as accurate as a 2x scope at longer ranges, they are more accurate than iron sights, and much faster to align. They would probably be the best choice for hunting dangerous game if it were not for the fact that they are battery dependent.
I use red dot sights on some of my hunting pistols, and I like them very much. If a battery failed in the field, I would simply replace it.
I carry a spare.) But battery life and performance are susceptible to extremes of both heat and cold, and dangerous game is often hunted in just such places; Alaska and equatorial Africa come to mind. And, considering Murphy's Law, I am not quite ready to bet my life on a sight that requires a good battery to function.
Muzzle Brakes. Muzzle brakes should be avoided on any rifle used for hunting dangerous game. As nice as is their recoil reduction capability, the (literally) deafening report of a powerful rifle equipped with a muzzle brake leaves the hunter unable to hear for some time. This creates a bad situation, as sometimes it is necessary to hear a dangerous animal coming to avoid being eaten or stepped- on. This is especially true when hunting animals that travel in herds, prides, or packs. Hunter injuries and deaths are often attributed not to the target animal, but to another that attacked from behind. In such situations the hunter's hearing is his only early warning system. A secondary consideration is that muzzle brakes are illegal in some African jurisdictions due to the damage they cause to the hearing of scouts and gun bearers.
And, for much the same reason, many North American big game guides will not allow clients to use a rifle equipped with a muzzle brake. Cartridges for Dangerous Game. Because of the recent popularity of the Winchester Short Magnum (WSM) and Remington Ultra Mag cartridges (short and long) and all the attention they have gotten from gun writers, rebated rim designs have become accepted. In the past, rebated rim designs were viewed with some (justifiable) suspicion. Rebated rim cartridges are not a good choice for repeating rifles that may be used on dangerous game, no matter how slick the advertising hype or impressive their ballistics.
The rebated rim gives the face of the bolt less rim to catch and push on when it is moved forward. This makes over- ride jams more likely than with a full diameter rim. Dangerous animals are a different proposition than other game, and cartridges for use on dangerous game should be held to different standards than normal hunting cartridges.
Any unnecessary decrease in reliability should be unacceptable. Especially when there are so many suitable cartridges available with full diameter rims. A rebated rim also allows more unsupported area at the head of the case when the bolt is closed, increasing the chance (however miniscule) of a case head rupture.
In normal use this is not a problem, and in most instances I would not lose any sleep over it. Obviously, for example, Remington thinks that the Ultra Mag cartridges are perfectly satisfactory, and Winchester has admitted no qualms concerning their WSM cartridges. On the other hand, belted magnum cases have exceptionally strong heads due to the extra thickness of the belt. They may have any shape of shoulder, sloping, radiused, or none at all, because they headspace on the belt rather than on the shoulder. Another feature of some modern rimless and rebated rim cartridges is a very sharp shoulder angle of 3. Small sharp shoulders, such as are found on the classic .
Rigby, have proven satisfactory. But wide sharp shoulders, such as are found on the WSM line of cartridges, could potentially cause a problem. Such shoulders are used because they increase the case capacity slightly (and hence muzzle velocity), and they are believed to increase the uniformity of the powder burn. The problem with the sharp shoulder angles found on some modern cartridges is that they can decrease the feed reliably of magazine rifles. A short, fat case with wide, abrupt shoulders is the worst shape in terms of feed reliably. This is one of the reasons why classic dangerous game cartridges such as the .
H& H Magnum have sloping shoulders. The designers of such cartridges put their customer's safety above maximum velocity, combustion efficiency, or sub- MOA accuracy. High Pressure Loads. Most British dangerous game cartridges are intentionally loaded to rather mild pressure by modern magnum standards. This is because they are mostly used in Africa and other hot climates, where the sun may have heated the rifle and ammo to about 1. F. by the time they are needed. That substantially increases the chamber pressure compared to the approximately 5.
It's a good idea not to reload to maximum pressure in any cartridge intended for use in hot climates. Such loads may be fine in Europe or North America, but the pressure may become excessive where the Big 5 live. The . 3. 00 H& H, . H& H, . 4. 16 Rigby, .
NE et al are perfectly adequate for their intended purposes as factory loaded. Higher velocity, greater energy, or flatter trajectory are not required. Excessive pressure can cause problems such as stiff actions, stuck cases, bulged brass, or even head separation, none of which are desirable when one's life may be on the line. Conclusion. Dangerous animals are large targets, and should not be shot at long range in any event (5. Even double barreled rifles, which have about the least accuracy and long range potential of all big game rifles, and which typically use cartridges loaded at moderate pressure and velocity, have proven to be more than adequate, even outstanding, for shooting dangerous game. These are points worth remembering. None of the factors mentioned above are likely to cause a problem.
But one jam in 1. Seeing a client get tossed by a buffalo just once in a lifetime because his gun jammed, or failed to feed, or the magazine floorplate flipped open and left him without a follow up shot is object lesson enough for a professional hunter. Living in the U. S. Oregon as I do, I don't ordinarily hunt dangerous game. But if I were buying a new bolt action rifle specifically for the purpose of hunting dangerous game, I would take these matters into account. And I would not choose any short action caliber with a fat, rebated rim case and a sharp shoulder angle.